Saturday, December 8, 2018

Paris: My May 1968

author Carol Rose

 My May 1968  Part One

by Carol Rose

Today it is May 1998,  my hourly companion, the faithful France Culture radio station, has begun to speak of May 1968 in reverent tones; an historical event, without any doubt, which had changed France irrevocably.  
First of all the awareness of time having passed likitysplit’ — thirty years had gone by — then it hit me that the manner I had lived this string of events did not jibe with the reverence in the speaker’s voice.  It struck me as odd as I had not been particularly aware at the time of having lived closely through any major event and yet there I had been in the midst of things I barely understood.  

I understood the excitement of the daily marches taking place on the Avenue in front of our courtyard.  I longed to be out there to join in the upsetting fun.   The pharmacist at the corner on the Place Denfert Rochereau was very mocking of me for he realized how I was longing to be free to join the crowd.  He was appalled by the chaos, the total disorder of the meetings of workers and students which usually originated or ended in front of his shop.  People shouting slogans would climb up onto the Lion de Denfert and wave red anarchist flags.  

Meanwhile, in the courtyard where we occupied an old house with two little children, the concierge, Madame Libé, was fearful and scandalized by the goings-on.  We would stand on the sidewalk of the Avenue, she dressed in purple, wringing her hands at the events taking place before us.  I, a little child on each hand,  was not seeing any danger whatsoever in the quite orderly demonstrators marching by with their slogans and banners.   One child wanted to know where all the people were going..  


The demonstrators would be full of enthusiasm when they began at Denfert and rancorous when they ended at Denfert coming all the way from the Place de la République.  Occasionally  I would take advantage of Madame Libé’s offer to keep the children and walk up to the Place after the main crowds had left only some workers and students in conversations which struck me as being spoken in two different languages. One,  the rather casual  language of the kids who, when addressing the workers, tried to put themselves on the same level by speaking slangy French (“c’est vachement important!” they emphasized to the workers); the workers’ speech was far more formal if grammatically quite different.   

The students were, so to speak, my neighbors. In the courtyard lived  an upper middle class1 bunch  of twentyish kids some of whose parents were absent diplomats , retirees, professional people and the one example of the proletariat, Madame Libé. Our absent ambassador landlord had marched all of his grandchildren out into the courtyard one day to inform them that it was she who ruled the roost and that they had to obey without complaint.  Thanks to his absence we occupied one of their houses.  Some of them had inherited fortunes, others were being supported by the parents.  We, my husband and I, were the only young people who worked.  Well, he worked in a Wall Street based law firm and I stayed home to care for the children;  I worked far longer hours than he but this was not considered to be work except by me.

The courtyard itself was unusual in that, behind the main building giving onto the Avenue through a porte cochère, there were brick and plaster houses of different sizes, each with a front garden stretching inwards and backing onto a larger public garden of the Paris Observatory.  It did not seem as if we were in a city at all and the life inside this large space was intimate yet private.   An alley separated its two sets of houses so that all comings and goings were visible.  A kind of formal courtesy reined so that no one really impinged on anyone else.  There was a lack of any sort of familiarity except for the contact the passing adults had with all the little children who numbered about 12 and were all ages, sizes and shapes.   This crowd of kids could play outside in their own various gardens but did not really circulate in the others’ houses until  during and after the events of May because  the parents were rebelling against the  social strictures of their social class and were changing their ways by opening  up a bit. 

We had moved into this little courtyard village the year before and were to find ourselves among the “elders” of the young for we were just 30 and they were in the range of 25 years old.  The only people older than we were Madame Libé who had lived through World War II and the facing neighbors who owned a big Marseilles newspaper.   But were we as old as I felt myself to be in this context?  The times were quite harsh about age.  Not too long before, a journalist friend of mine had interviewed Brigitte Bardot who had defined the ages of man for him.  Anyone over 27 was what she called a ‘croulant’, decrepit, someone beneath notice.  My friend had been dismayed as he was 45 at the time!. In the month of April 1968, I felt myself to be aged and the 18 hour workdays with toddler children, endless laundry,  electricity and plumbing  repairs, shopping, cooking and so on left me no time to read, write or seek out friends in this foreign place to which we had migrated.  

We would turn over our monthly rent to the our landlord’s student children in cash.  They lived in the other half  of the semi-detached house.  Their lives seemed very desirable to me for it had only been a short time ago that my own had become limited so terribly to strictly domestic travails.  When I saw their freedom, I was daily dismayed.  In addition to the feeling of loss of youth, I felt that, although I loved my little children passionately, it was a demeaning occupation to be a housewife, moreover the classification by others into the category ‘mother and housewife’ was unbearable to me.  

The neighbors were artists, students, intellectuals, grandparents, great grandparents and some were young parents who took their parenthood rather lightly for most people in this courtyard were related to most of the other people and were not out on a limb the way I felt myself to be.  So many emergencies relating to the children and no one to fill in for me, especially in this month of May. 

The way my 1968 revolution started was with the departure of my husband who was off to take a mediterranean so-called cruise with an Australian  legal colleague, former dean of the law school in Dar es Salaam, who had ditched his very respectable wife and three children to hook up with a African prostitute who had picked him up in a Dar Es Salaam bar.  The crew consisted of his companion Zena, her cousins and their toddler child.  They had arrived in Paris from Dar via London where he had bought his sailboat which this unlikely crew had docked along  the Seine.   They had no warm clothing and  the child’s teeth were falling out from illness.  When I asked about dental care for the little one, he replied: ‘Never mind  he is an African child and no African children get dental care! “.    I scurried around and located clothes for the whole bunch shivering from the early spring cold,  then they sailed down through the canals to reach the sea where my husband joined up with them.  This event took place at the end of April so, when the month of May began I found myself alone in the city with some much appreciated cash on hand which I had asked for in advance.  At that prehistoric time women were not allowed to have separate bank accounts.  He had left me with 700 francs.  This was a crucial figure as the banks we're soon to close and there were mouths to feed, as the cliché goes. 

We heard that the first demonstration was to start here and to cross the city to the Place de la Republique or the other way around.  The Place Denfert Rochereau was just at the end of the block of the same name.  Its immense bronze lion had been melted down by the Nazis to make bullets but was now recast and placed in the center of the place.  On one of the first days May Mme Libé and I and the little children were out of the courtyard on the Avenue watching the lines of students marching by.  I was very excited but Madame Libé was very frightened.  Unlike her, I had not known war or social unrest  except by proxy in Les Misérables or L’Education Sentimentale.  As for the children, they watched what was going on with little interest.  While we were standing there in what seemed to her like total chaos and to me like an orderly demonstration, one of the children said to me: “why does Madame Libé always were purple clothes?”.  I do not remember what or if I answered but it was clear that three persons’ realities were quite different from one another.  

The first barricades were to be erected that night.  I was, unlike my neighbors,  with the children and not out on the barricades or elsewhere.  The following morning there was much excitement in the courtyard as our young parent neighbors had all been out on the barricades and had all been arrested and had been held prisoner in the city hall of the fifth arrondissement.  Their children as well as the others had been alone overnight in their various apartments and houses in the courtyard.  I had heard crying from somewhere  but thought that other family members would be watching over them.  Wrongly as it turned out.  The most elderly member of the courtyard community , their great grandfather, had been a prominent member of the wartime resistance movement.  When he heard that his grandchildren, their parents, were being held in custody leaving his great grandchildren unapt ended in the courtyard, he immediately called unto complain to his old friend, Maurice Grimaud, the Prefet de Police of Paris.   The quick result was that the grandchildren were sprung from prison within the hour.  They came home full of pride at having been arrested and made their plans for the next nights.  This strange situation made me feel even more isolated as the days wore on.  Each new evening saw the departure of the courtyard parents onto the barricades and each morning, once sprung, they would return, feed the children and plan the coming night’s activities

 Meanwhile the dozen or so children were at loose ends.  I began marketing on the Rue Daguerre several times a day as the children would come into our house and eat up all of the bananas and yoghurts.  In those days I never locked the front door; often I would find a child riffling through my purse in the hallway or groping into the fridge.  Barriers were tumbling down.

One morning, as I was seeing to the laundry in our bathroom which gave obliquely onto our neighbors’ first story roof,  I thought I heard the voice of our chatterbox three year old  daughter.  The more I listened the more I recognized her voice but could not figure out where it was coming from.  Opening the window onto the roof I saw her standing, declaiming over a gaggle of adults, all lying down gazing up at her in rapt attention.  Over their heads were black anarchist banners draped all around their windows.  She was giving a little lecture and they were stoned into silence.   I called to tell her to come home immediately which she did.    

There were young people coming in and out of the courtyard incessantly.   Often I would see them hesitate in front of our house and point it out.  One balmy day, I had the windows open when I heard one of them say, while pointing, ‘that is where the capitalists live’.  This was so bizarre a concern which puzzled me until I began to ask myself why we were “capitalists” and I could find no reason whatsoever meriting such a dirty name.  Then, thinking about what it meant, I came to the realization that the reason we were renting their property was because we had no capital and could not afford to buy even a broom closet in Paris.  We were paying our rental to the neighbors who were living down and off a great 19th century fortune.  By this time the whole city was at a halt, no garbage disposal, no banks, no gas, no work as all of the factories were on strike but we did have food and the 700 francs, although considerably diminished, was still feeding us and supplying bananas to the children of the neighborhood.   

Across the street, in the local hardware shop, huge refrigerator cardboard boxes were obstructing the sidewalk so  I thought it would be fun to bring a few over and cut doors and windows into them to give the children playhouses.  While I was doing this the idea came that not only would they be playhouses but that I needed to clearly mark them as Banks with poster paint.  Once done the trap was laid and the first one of the mockers came by, seeing us in the garden next to the BANKS, asked me: Why BANKS?  With an absolutely straight face I said to him ‘its normal for capitalists to love banks, don’t you think?’  He was speechless and continued his way down the courtyard.

We had lent our Volkswagen bug car to a friend who had parked it in another neighborhood further down the boulevard St; Michel.  When we retrieved it, the car was plastered with signs saying “yankee go home”.  I mentioned this to one of the neighbors several days later.  He looked very embarrassed because it apparently had been he who had done this.  He was the same one who had precipitously jumped down from his mezzanine yelling ‘yankee go home’ in late April.   Years later I was following a much older man who resembled him limping along a narrow sidewalk..  I called out the first name of the 30 years ago culprit.  He turned around.   I could not resist asking him if he was still anti american. He said he was. 

My husband returned from the south of France, 10 days later,  having hitchhiked back as there were no trains and he was lucky  to be picked up by someone who had gas.   He had missed all the excitement.  We had missed him but had managed beautifully including making a small loan to my sister who had shown up broke so the 700 francs was almost depleted.  Life resumed, the banks reopened, no more barricades, no more bananas and the armed man who would come by every month to give me the family allowance cash I deserved as the mother of two brought his offering.  Madame Libé calmed down but never did lose her anxiety about the goings on until she retired to the country.  Our neighbors’ marriages all broke up and they went off with lovers or to nursed their despair in  wanderings to Indian ashrams or South American native tribes.    The children grew up, some finding the!r way but some of the 12 ended their lives, others became intellectuals in their turn but, to my knowledge, none became lawyers or businessmen.  True to their parents’ beliefs until this day.  
                                                                         

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About the author, Carol Rose

Living in Paris since 1965 subsequent to a Fulbright stint in 1956 57,   I was determined to leave the midwest because of the McCarthy era outrage  Here my life has consisted in child rearing,  three kids, seeing them through and over some humps and basically they are sound, good parents, living here.with their children.   Going back to a former life working in teaching language, dissatisfied,  I began undertaking new studies in clinical psychology  at Paris VII leading to clinical work with children at St Anne Hospital; specializing in non readers and all sorts of other pathologies.   Then that period came to a close and I began to study and do ceramics with several teachers including kristen mckirdy. which I have continued in my country studio.  I live with my husband, Tom Rose,  both in Paris and in Touraine nearby Chenonceau.     I have been writing for myself now since 1969.

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